We arrived in Venice later than we had expected. Our train was supposed to be in Venice around 6:30, but due to some downed power lines in the Alps, our train from Munich to Venice was delayed for about an hour and a half in Innsbruck. Then, for some reason, OBB refused to go to the destination on our ticket, Santa Lucia, and forced us to take a commuter train from the Venice Maeste station to the Santa Lucia station. I still don’t understand what was going on there, but I’m sure the explanation was lost in translation.
We finally arrived around 2 hours later than expected, around dusk. Looking for our AirBnB, we followed the waypoint on Apple Maps from the train station to a courtyard. The directions weren’t making sense, so I double-checked where we were and said “Uh, honey, we’re on the wrong side of the island.” Somehow, the waypoint on Apple Maps was set in the wrong location, and I’m still not sure why, but we were completely in the wrong place. We had walked about 15 minutes on an expected walk of 15 minutes and now according to the map we were now 25 minutes away from our AirBnB. We were thirsty, hot, a touch hangry and lost.
Eventually, after around 45 minutes of wandering around Venice, dragging our suitcases with the clickity-clack of the suitcase wheels smacking every crevice of the stone streets, we arrived at our AirBnB. We took a quick look around the place, dropped our suitcases, and went out to get some food. There was a little pasta place about 50 steps from our door and we sat down for some authentic Italian pasta.
Once we had sat down and some food hit our stomachs, we realized that here we were, wandering around one of most beautiful cities in the world, after dark, in the glow of the streetlights, and we hadn’t enjoyed it, because the day didn’t go the way we wanted. It was ridiculous, how in the world had we walked miles through Venice while being thoroughly cranky?
It certainly wasn’t the last time we were lost in Venice. We spent the next few days trying our best to navigate the streets, but it’s tough. We had GPS constantly going and we still would get lost. Venice is just a giant maze, which sounds horrible, but it’s a maze filled with gelato, pasta, cicchetti and aperol spritz.
Learning the lesson from our previous crabbiness, we took the other times we were lost in stride. The basic problem, of course, is that Venice is a haphazard collection of narrow, crooked streets and alleys. It’s almost as if the buildings of Venice were dropped wherever and they just built the streets around them. Sometimes the streets narrow down to just a few feet, sometimes they widen into a large piazza with statues and restaurants with outdoor seating.
It’s chaos, undeniably beautiful chaos. When we made plans to go to Venice there was a lot I hoped to do, but honestly Venice has a way of slowing you down. There’s no real public transportation other than the vaporetto, a water bus, which we didn’t use because the routes didn’t seem useful to us. You pretty much have to walk everywhere. Getting places just takes a while, and once you figure in the time that you inevitably get lost, you end up spending a lot of the day just walking. To make matters worse, there are not as many bridges over the canals as you would think. Also as we found out, the bridges aren’t always on the “main” streets. Sometimes the bridge you need to take is down a narrow alley and around a blind corner.
The addresses in Venice are also maddening. The AirBnB that we stayed at had an address something like 3343 Dorsoduro. Dorsoduro isn’t a street, it’s an area, a fairly large area in Venice. I legitimately have no idea how Venetian house numbers work. They seem to be grouped but just because you’re standing in front of 3341 doesn’t mean that 3343 is right next door. You’re probably close, but that doesn’t mean you’re really close. This is why you need solid directions, or Google Maps if you are going somewhere specific, those addresses are largely meaningless.
The problem isn’t really Venice. In the words of Taylor Swift, “It’s me, hi, I’m the problem.” I’m a middle-aged American who has spent his entire life with a unfinished checklist. Being task oriented is a way of life for Americans. Being in a hurry is so ingrained in us from childhood, that anything that stands in our way is unbelievably frustrating. I had things on my checklist that I needed to check off. I was so wrapped up in buying our groceries from Despar Teatro Italia, getting cicchetti at Arcicchetti Bakero, and finding a bar with a decent beer list that we didn’t wander the way someone really should when visiting Venice.
I’m not saying you shouldn’t have an itinerary when visiting, however we were only there for a few days and it really wasn’t until our last day where we just let Venice tell us where to go. Because of that, when we were walking along the street next to the coast in the Dorsoduro District we saw a floating bridge to the Giudecca District across the Giudecca Canal. If we hadn’t been walking there, I wouldn’t have known that bridge even existed. The bridge doesn’t even show up on Google maps because it’s a pontoon bridge that is only assembled for the Festa del Redentor (Feast of the Redeemer) which takes place over two days in July. We went across the bridge and ended up having lunch there.
In retrospect, I wish we had a few more days there. A week might have been perfect. I could have gotten used to the pace of life in Venice, taken our time and really properly wander the streets and alleys of Venice, while still managing to do some of those must-do things like visiting St. Mark’s Square, sunbathing on Lido Beach, or climbing the Campanile. After all, if you’re not randomly stopping for an aperol spritz, or a cannoli with a cappuccino or espresso, or even a cicchetti and a Birra Moretti are you even doing Venice correctly? Venice is practically begging you to come, relax, and toss out that itinerary. Maybe we’ll listen next time (there will be a next time).
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