I love running while traveling. I spend a ridiculous amount of my life running the same roads and bike paths near my house. Over and over again – and don’t even get me started on treadmills. Any time that I get an opportunity to run in different scenery, I will take it.
Florence, Italy is a pretty nice place to run if you get a chance. There aren’t a whole lot of choices of places to run when you’re in Florence, but the views are amazing nonetheless.
Limited Route Choices
The problem with running in Florence is that much of the town is covered by a ZTL or a limited traffic zone that doesn’t allow for cars other than residents, buses or taxis to drive within that zone. As a runner, that sounds great, right? The problem is that because of the ZTL all of the garbage trucks and delivery trucks run around Florence in the morning before the ZTL goes into effect and it can get a little busy. I like to run in the morning but I don’t want to dodge delivery trucks.
You could wait until the ZTL goes into effect, at 7:30, but then the amount of pedestrians increase dramatically and you might end up dodging pedestrians during your run. This might be okay if you want to run a low intensity run and maybe you want to see a lot of the beautiful sights of Florence. But if you want to run at a higher intensity, the option is really to run along the Arno River.
My Route

Our Airbnb was located south of the Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station and just a block off of the Arno river. This meant that all I had to do was take a right on the first street, and then jump on the sidewalk that runs parallel to the Arno River.

It was before dawn in November, and the air was crisp with the temperatures in the mid 40s and very little wind. It was the kind of temperatures that is ideal for performance. My attention wasn’t on running a fast time, it was on the amazing views of Florence as it emerged from darkness.

Florence is beautifully illuminated by the lights along the Arno at night, with streetlights dancing on the ripples of the river. I continued my jog along the river heading toward the famous Ponte Vecchio. There were a few other joggers along the path. I was on the north side of the Arno heading east and the sidewalk was only a few feet wide, but the traffic was light which allowed passing in the street, when necessary.
Crossing at Ponte Vecchio

The previous day, I had experienced Ponte Vecchio in the afternoon with crowds of people shopping for jewelry. When I was there I noticed the shops had wooden protections for the shop windows. I was curious what the shops looked like with the wooden protections down and the crowds gone. I was not disappointed. It was truly interesting and in a way beautiful. At least as beautiful as theft protection could be.

I crossed the Arno River at Ponte Vecchio and then continued east along the river, this time on the south side.

Piazzale Michelangelo
I timed my run out for one particular reason. I wanted to experience Piazzale Michelangelo at sunrise. Piazzale Michelangelo is a very popular place for people to visit at sunset, but going at sunrise allows for people to get a spectacular view of the city when very few people have even bothered to get up.

The problem was, that I missed my turn. I kept running along the path and missed the turn to go up to Piazzale Michelangelo. I ended up running probably about a half mile too far, before I realized that I needed to turn around and come back to the west. I finally took my turn off at Porto San Niccolo, a tower that marks the turn up to Piazzale Michelangelo.
There is a decent amount of elevation change from the path along the Arno up to the Piazzale, so I’m ashamed to admit, I walked a little. But I worked my way up the windy road until I reached the Piazzale Michelangelo and I was not disappointed.

The Piazzale Michelangelo is a large plaza that has unbeatable views of the city of Florence. It has spectacular views of the Duomo with the Tuscan hills in the background. Seeing the sun rising over the city is an amazing experience and it was worth every mile and every foot of elevation on the climb.

After relaxing a bit in the plaza and watching the sunrise, I worked my way back to the Airbnb, this time spending more time on the south side of the Arno. Seeing essentially the same sights, but this time illuminated by the sun, instead of illuminated by streetlights created a different appreciation for the beauty of Florence.

Suggestions for Routes
Based on the limited amount of running that I’ve done in Florence. I think running along the Arno might be your best bet. Running through town, you might find yourself dodging delivery trucks early in the morning or pedestrians later in the morning. If you’re not in a hurry that might not be a problem.
If you can work in a trip to Piazzale Michelangelo, you absolutely should. If you can do it at dawn or dusk, even better. There is just something magical about that location and you will not be disappointed.






