Venice – A Masterpiece Centuries in the Making

Why is Venice Built on Water?

There is debate on this, but the general consensus is that around 600 AD, Italians who were fleeing attacks from Lombard invaders moved out onto the islands of Venice because they could defend themselves better on the islands. The islands were marshy and difficult to build on, but much easier to defend than being on the mainland. In order to prevent anything that was built on the marsh from predictably sinking, the Venetians drove millions of wooden posts into the marsh. These posts compacted the mud. The mud keeps the posts from decomposing and the combination of the mud and posts makes a solid foundation on which to build. Strip the City does a great job demonstrating how this worked in the video below.

Venice Becomes a Trade Empire

For much of the time between the 9th Century and the 16th Century, Venice was uniquely positioned to take advantage of trade routes. Venice had access to Constantinople as well as Alexandria by ship and was able to unload goods onto the European mainland. This allowed them to sell goods throughout Europe. Venice built a powerful navy in order to protect their merchants from pirates in the Mediterranean Sea. This turned Venice into a vital link between the spice and silk trade of Asia and Medieval Europe where those goods were so valuable. The Smithsonian Magazine has a great article which goes into greater depth on this subject.

Image provided by the Smithsonian Magazine

Wealth Produces Art

One thing that always seems to be the case throughout history, is that where there is great wealth, there is great art. The vast trading empire of Venice was creating an amazing amount of wealth amongst its merchants. That wealth created a market for artwork, since having great artwork is generally a way that many wealthy people demonstrate that they are wealthy and successful. There are a number of famous renaissance artists from Venice, including Giovanni Bellini, Vittore Carpaccio, Giorgione, and Titian.

Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti

We typically think of painting when we think of art. But art is evident throughout Venice. You see it in the architecture, the stonework and the ironwork on buildings. You see it in the statues and even in the beauty of the gondolas that seem to glide through the canals.

Gondolas take around 6 months to build and cost around 40,000 Euro.

The Architecture of Venice

As was just about everything in Venice, the architecture of Venice was influenced by its trading partners. Because Venice was trading with people throughout Europe and into the Byzantine Empire, a new form of architecture emerged in Venice. It is known as Venetian Gothic and it is found throughout Venice and has elements of Gothic architecture such as pointed arches, rib vaults and tracery as well as elements of Byzantine architecture such as the use of domes and veneers. These elements created a unique style that can be seen throughout Venice.

The domes at St Mark’s Basilica are examples of Byzantine influence in Venetian architecture

The vast majority of buildings are obviously not as adorned as St. Mark’s Basilica, but even the typical homes in Venice have a certain flair to them. There are a number of Juliet balconies, windows featuring tracing and pointed arches, and a lot of lovely doors. There are also window boxes with flowers everywhere. It all leads to a style that is positively Venetian.

The Doors of Venice

One of my favorite things about Venice is the doors. They all seem to be unique to the buildings. A lot of them are wooden and very worn with time. Often you see them like in the below picture, with beautiful stonework and ironwork surrounding the doorframe.

Other times, you see doors which are not quite as worn, but instead are truly unique pieces of art, like this beautiful metal door. This door also has beautiful stonework surrounding it as well as some really interesting brickwork.

Below is another example of great stonework and brickwork surrounding the door. Also, this door is a gorgeous piece of woodwork. Another thing I’ve noticed about Venetian doors is that not always is the lock and door pull where you would expect them which is interesting. Venetian doors also tend to all have letter slots.

Beautiful Door with Inscription over it meaning “Year of our Lord 1904″

Venetian Statues

If you walk around enough in Venice, you will undoubtably come across a few statues. Many of the campos in Venice feature a statue dedicated to a historical figure of Venice. From the limited amount of time I spent in Venice, it seemed that the majority of these statues were fairly recent, being from the 19th Century or newer. However, in my opinion, they fit in nicely to their surroundings, even if they are recent additions to the plazas they inhabit.

The Monument to Daniele Manin was erected in 1875 and was sculpted by Luigi Borro.

The above statue is a bronze statue of Daniele Manin, who was born in Venice and an important leader who helped to reunify Italy. It is the featured statue in Campo Manin, obviously named for the Daniele Manin.

Monument to Niccoló Tommaseo built in 1882 by Francesco Barzaghi

The statue above, is a built out of Carrara marble. It was a monument built to Niccoló Tommaseo who was known as a scholar and an Italian patriot. This particular statue has a funny nickname, because as the sculptor was carving the statue, it began to have structural issues. In order to keep it from falling over, he carved a stack of books for Niccoló to lean on. The problem is that the stack of books looks like it’s flowing from under his overcoat, which has earned the statue the nickname “book shitter”.

The Bridges of Venice

Virtually all bridges in Venice are built with the same basic shape. The strength is created by an archway over the canal, while a walkway is a set of stairs up and a set of stairs down. Many of the bridges, especially the ones that are built over smaller canals are built with stone and brick.

Both of these bridges are typical of Venetian bridges. Arched at the bottom and stairs on top.

The bridges that are built over the Grand Canal are longer and require a more modern structural design. The most modern example is the Constitution Bridge that was opened in 2008 and is unique in Venice for it’s steel and glass construction and modern design.

Artistic Touches

There is a certain flair to much of what you run across in Venice, you’ll see it in door frames, window frames, as well as architectural sculptures. You’ll also see it in the detail of the three flagpoles in the Piazza San Marco. The bronze bases were sculpted by Alessandro Leopardi in 1505. The flagpoles are spaced out in front of the St. Marks Basilica and are strikingly beautiful.

St Mark’s Clocktower is also a great example of the style of Venice. It’s an beautiful white stone structure, with the Lion of St Mark near the top. Below that is the Virgin with Child and then the clockface itself. This clocktower was built as a replacement for an older clocktower in the late 15th Century.

St Mark’s Clocktower

St. Mark’s Basilica itself takes the details to extremes. There are details everywhere. Just one small section of the basilica demonstrates the details. There are multiple columns and a stone archway. The door itself has intricate ironwork while the head of the doorframe is an intricate Byzantine design. The most stunning part, however is the mosaic half-dome which depicts the moment that St Mark’s body was carried into the Basilica. It is adorned in 24 carat gold leaf. Seemingly every inch of the Basilica is covered in detail like this.

This mosaic half dome over a door to St Mark’s Basilica is stunning.

Ironwork of Venice

Venice has some amazing Ironwork that can be found around the city. Mostly you will see it in gates, fences and balconies, but you will also see it on lamp posts.

Ironwork on the doors as well as on lamps are everywhere in Venice

The most typical places that you see this ironwork is as window grills or as door protections. I’m sure that the original purpose of this was for security, however they do tend to be very beautiful and add a certain flair to an already beautiful city.

Window Grille from our AirBnB looking out to a courtyard

The Canals of Venice

Canals aren’t necessarily art themselves, but in reality they are the parts of Venice that weren’t forced to become solid ground. They are, in a sense, the absence of development. But they are also the main thoroughfares that are the lifeblood of Venice. They are the roads that deliver the goods that feed the city as well as transport citizens and tourists alike around the city.

The canals, themselves, are semi-manmade. Obviously, since Venice was built in a marsh, the water was there naturally. But the wooden pilings that were placed in the marsh to create the solid ground on which Venice’s buildings were built determine the edge of that water. Also, there is a significant amount of maintenance on the canals that maintain the depth of those canals.

The canals are quintessentially Venice and are usually the first things that people think of when they picture the city. They are more a result of public works, much as any street in the world is, but there is just something uniquely beautiful about these canals. I believe that beauty is a result of how well the canals fit in with their surroundings.

Centuries of Artisans create a Single Masterpiece

In the end, what Venice has become is the result of centuries of hard work by thousands upon thousands of hard working Venetian citizens. Great cities take time to evolve. Venice was a city built in the marsh because of the need for security of its citizens. It developed slowly but steadily into a trading empire and it’s citizens became wealthy. As the city developed, they continued to make improvement after improvement, whether it be public works projects like bridges and canals, architectural and building projects, or artisan projects like statues, doors and ironwork.

In the end what is left is a single masterpiece that people from around the world visit and admire. It is one of the world’s great cities and should be experienced at least once in a lifetime.

Window boxes on Juliet balconies are common.

Venice, a Beautiful Labyrinth

We arrived in Venice later than we had expected. Our train was supposed to be in Venice around 6:30, but due to some downed power lines in the Alps, our train from Munich to Venice was delayed for about an hour and a half in Innsbruck. Then, for some reason, OBB refused to go to the destination on our ticket, Santa Lucia, and forced us to take a commuter train from the Venice Maeste station to the Santa Lucia station. I still don’t understand what was going on there, but I’m sure the explanation was lost in translation.

The church San Simeone Piccolo is unmistakable when exiting the train station

We finally arrived around 2 hours later than expected, around dusk. Looking for our AirBnB, we followed the waypoint on Apple Maps from the train station to a courtyard. The directions weren’t making sense, so I double-checked where we were and said “Uh, honey, we’re on the wrong side of the island.” Somehow, the waypoint on Apple Maps was set in the wrong location, and I’m still not sure why, but we were completely in the wrong place. We had walked about 15 minutes on an expected walk of 15 minutes and now according to the map we were now 25 minutes away from our AirBnB. We were thirsty, hot, a touch hangry and lost.

Narrow streets paved with setts lined with gorgeous centuries-old buildings is typical of most streets in Venice

Eventually, after around 45 minutes of wandering around Venice, dragging our suitcases with the clickity-clack of the suitcase wheels smacking every crevice of the stone streets, we arrived at our AirBnB. We took a quick look around the place, dropped our suitcases, and went out to get some food. There was a little pasta place about 50 steps from our door and we sat down for some authentic Italian pasta.

The Bridge of Sighs where convicts would cross and get their last view of Venice before being imprisoned.

Once we had sat down and some food hit our stomachs, we realized that here we were, wandering around one of most beautiful cities in the world, after dark, in the glow of the streetlights, and we hadn’t enjoyed it, because the day didn’t go the way we wanted. It was ridiculous, how in the world had we walked miles through Venice while being thoroughly cranky?

Brick and stone arched bridges, rooftop decks and Juliet balconies are typical features in Venice.

It certainly wasn’t the last time we were lost in Venice. We spent the next few days trying our best to navigate the streets, but it’s tough. We had GPS constantly going and we still would get lost. Venice is just a giant maze, which sounds horrible, but it’s a maze filled with gelato, pasta, cicchetti and aperol spritz.

Gondoliers navigate a narrow canal.

Learning the lesson from our previous crabbiness, we took the other times we were lost in stride. The basic problem, of course, is that Venice is a haphazard collection of narrow, crooked streets and alleys. It’s almost as if the buildings of Venice were dropped wherever and they just built the streets around them. Sometimes the streets narrow down to just a few feet, sometimes they widen into a large piazza with statues and restaurants with outdoor seating.

The Ponte Della Constituzione Bridge is beautiful, but it’s modern design seems wildly out of place in Venice.

It’s chaos, undeniably beautiful chaos. When we made plans to go to Venice there was a lot I hoped to do, but honestly Venice has a way of slowing you down. There’s no real public transportation other than the vaporetto, a water bus, which we didn’t use because the routes didn’t seem useful to us. You pretty much have to walk everywhere. Getting places just takes a while, and once you figure in the time that you inevitably get lost, you end up spending a lot of the day just walking. To make matters worse, there are not as many bridges over the canals as you would think. Also as we found out, the bridges aren’t always on the “main” streets. Sometimes the bridge you need to take is down a narrow alley and around a blind corner.

The Campanile Di San Marco is an impressive 323’ tall tower in located in the Piazza San Marco.

The addresses in Venice are also maddening. The AirBnB that we stayed at had an address something like 3343 Dorsoduro. Dorsoduro isn’t a street, it’s an area, a fairly large area in Venice. I legitimately have no idea how Venetian house numbers work. They seem to be grouped but just because you’re standing in front of 3341 doesn’t mean that 3343 is right next door. You’re probably close, but that doesn’t mean you’re really close. This is why you need solid directions, or Google Maps if you are going somewhere specific, those addresses are largely meaningless.

Statue of Daniele Manin, a 19th century statesman from Venice.

The problem isn’t really Venice. In the words of Taylor Swift, “It’s me, hi, I’m the problem.” I’m a middle-aged American who has spent his entire life with a unfinished checklist. Being task oriented is a way of life for Americans. Being in a hurry is so ingrained in us from childhood, that anything that stands in our way is unbelievably frustrating. I had things on my checklist that I needed to check off. I was so wrapped up in buying our groceries from Despar Teatro Italia, getting cicchetti at Arcicchetti Bakero, and finding a bar with a decent beer list that we didn’t wander the way someone really should when visiting Venice.

I’m not a big boat guy, but that’s a gorgeous boat.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t have an itinerary when visiting, however we were only there for a few days and it really wasn’t until our last day where we just let Venice tell us where to go. Because of that, when we were walking along the street next to the coast in the Dorsoduro District we saw a floating bridge to the Giudecca District across the Giudecca Canal. If we hadn’t been walking there, I wouldn’t have known that bridge even existed. The bridge doesn’t even show up on Google maps because it’s a pontoon bridge that is only assembled for the Festa del Redentor (Feast of the Redeemer) which takes place over two days in July. We went across the bridge and ended up having lunch there.

The Chiesa de San Barnaba was hosting a DiVinci exhibit.

In retrospect, I wish we had a few more days there. A week might have been perfect. I could have gotten used to the pace of life in Venice, taken our time and really properly wander the streets and alleys of Venice, while still managing to do some of those must-do things like visiting St. Mark’s Square, sunbathing on Lido Beach, or climbing the Campanile. After all, if you’re not randomly stopping for an aperol spritz, or a cannoli with a cappuccino or espresso, or even a cicchetti and a Birra Moretti are you even doing Venice correctly? Venice is practically begging you to come, relax, and toss out that itinerary. Maybe we’ll listen next time (there will be a next time).